What an interesting couple of weeks its been. I’m in the middle of trying to rebuild my recently destroyed wardrobe, on an artists budget. No easy task.
I would love to make everything from scratch but that’s not always possible. It’s a very time consuming endeavor, and fabric can be quite expensive depending on what you’re after, so my rebuild project is going to be a combination of newly made pieces and thrifted alterations.
I spent the last week doing some field work. Combing the racks of thrift stores and clearance sales to try and find pieces that were good (enough) replacements. This can be a frustrating process for the average person, because you’re not likely to find exactly what you want just waiting for you at a second hand store.
Luckily for someone who sews, your options are wider.
As long as I can find things that are in relatively good repair, no intense biological (sweat) stains, and are the design I want, anything to do with fit is easy enough to sort out. I picked up some choice pieces, washed them, and now I’m ready to chop ’em up.
So what do I have for you this week?
Check out this score!
I found this at Black Market on Queen West. It’s got that soft, well-worn, vintage feel and that perfect $10 price. I’m a Pokémon nerd and needed this in my rotation.
So thats why it’s great!
Here’s why it’s not.
The collar is tattered and while this is a medium, it’s very clearly a “men’s” medium, and fits quite big on me. As is, the shirt doesn’t make for a stylish piece.
To start, I turned my attention to the collar. I don’t love crew necks on me anyway, so the holes gave me an excuse to alter the neckline. I wanted to pull off that 90’s grunge raw neckline. Jersey fabric is forgiving of a non-finished edge, as it doesn’t fray, so no worries there.
However, I was very afraid of over cutting the neckline and ruining the shirt, so sought out a YouTube tutorial to use as a guideline. I found a straightforward one from the channel Cinderella Sews that achieved the look I wanted, but I scaled back the measurements on it. She says four fingers, but for me that would have the shirt falling off my shoulders. I either have huge hands or a very dainty frame. Please let me pretend it’s the latter.
I put the shirt on and measured where I wanted it to sit. I figured out I wanted the neckline to end 2″ from the start of the collar.
I measured and then followed the video instructions to cut halfway and fold the cut away over to use as a tracer and keep the neckline even.
Now onto problem 2: The length.
Excuse the HORRENDOUS picture, but as you can see this shirt is a borderline dress. I wanted to shorten it to hit my waistline so I did something very scientific. I folded it up while wearing it until it fell to the length I wanted and pinned the fold in place.
I measured from the edge of the fold (from underneath if you’re able to see from the first photo) to the bottom of the shirt, giving me the amount I needed to take off, then subtracted 1″ to account for my hem. What does that mean? I wanted it to be 6.5″ shorter but cut 5.5″ off.
While I left the neckline raw the bottom of t-shirts being left unhemmed is a less desirable look.
Marked and cut! No turning back:
You’ll notice I pinned the bottom of the shirt together to keep it from sliding, so to reduce any shifting and keep my cut even.
And you may notice again that, even though I accounted for a hem, I still cut a hair under my chalk markings. That’s because I planned to serge the edge and knew the serger blade would shave some more of the shirt off no matter how careful I was.
So why would I bother serging the edge? I’ve already pointed out that t-shirt knit doesn’t fray. I’ll explain in a minute.
Using my gauge, I measured out the 1″ allowance I left when cutting and folded/ pinned my hem into place.
Then I stitched down on either side of my serge line (top and bottom) to secure it into place and create that double stitch that all t-shirts have in their bottom hem instead of using a dual needle setting. I used my serge stitch as a guideline to keep a consistent width between the two stitches. Also, this knit is thin and the thread gave the edge something more for the needle to bite into without causing the fabric to bunch up.
Oooooh man does my knit sewing need some practice. The stretch and slide got away from me and these stitch lines are less than straight.
Ok, LAST STEP.
I wanted to shorten the sleeves, but specifically liked the rolled cuff look. I rolled up the width of the sleeve hem twice and then, using a very small stitch, I tacked the cuff into place.
That’s it. My thrifted shirt now has that “faux-vintage” chainstore look.
And now my least favourite part: photos of me wearing it.
Look how thrilled I am to be taking my picture right now:
But the shirt looks pretty great, I’m proud of the outcome. I run into this a lot with old shirts I find. I like the feel, colour, or design but hate how it looks like I’m wearing my older brother’s shirt or that I’m being choked by the neckline.
I’ve seem similar factory distressed shirts in stores at the mall that sell for $40.
$10 and 45 minutes is more my style.